Steampunk Thursday #8: A Corset is a Lady's Best Friend

The corset.

Worn for centuries, reclaimed by fashion in recent years and recycled in almost every form imaginable. You can buy them on the high street, at markets and fairs, in specialist shops and in more online stores than I can shake a small top hat at.

I loved corsets long before I became interested in steampunk. I think they're beautiful, sexy, stylish, really supportive of my (bad) back and actually very comfortable to wear. I, like many others, have shopped far and wide in search of mine, but how many of us actually know exactly what we are/should be looking for?

When I popped my corset cherry, it was at a shop in Camden Lock and the sales assistant was really helpful in finding a style that I liked and fitting it correctly. I walked away with a silky black number and was very pleased with myself for a while. However, this corset only had plastic boning, and both failed to conform to my curves properly and was too long for me (my friends can tell you hilarious stories about rolling me into taxi cabs because I couldn't bend in half to sit down). I was soon to learn that this wasn't going to be a long term thing.

My second corset came from The Dark Angel and was a slight improvement, as I bought it based on my waist measurement and it was steel boned. It gave me the hourglass figure I was looking for, but still wasn't an absolutely perfect fit; I spilled out over the top in a way that was only likely to be beneficial if I was planning on charging by the hour.

At this point I realised that a tailored corset was something I was going to need to invest in.

Overbust Corset:

An overbust corset is the most common type, and extends from just under the arms to over the hips. Miss Emilly Ladybird gives sound (and professional) advice on buying a full (or overbust) corset;

When corsets were worn regularly, every lady had their favourite manufacturer, much as we do with bras today. But modern corset manufacture has become a bit of a minefield, with many cheap, badly patterned "corsets" being sold fairly cheaply on the internet and at conventions, these are bulk manufactured to "standard" sizes and to be avoided.

A corset is underwear, it is designed to change your figure shape, and every single persons figure is different. Standard sizes rarely fit anyone properly and a badly fitting corset will make you ache, a lot, and may damage your ribs.

Save up and get one made by a really, really good corsetiere whose corsets make you gasp with joy, and whose clients have similar bodyshapes to your own. Make sure it is steel boned and ensure they have a selection of corset shapes and designs to choose from, don't be wowed by surface decoration or pretty fabric, it's the shape and support that counts. A corset should enhance your figure, not just be a pretty corset.

Never ever buy a corset just by "waist" measurement. It won't fit on the hips or bust, spilling out top and bottom "muffin top" style looks terrible. Your corsetiere should ask you for plenty of measurements and insist on a fitting if they haven't made you one before.

Ooh and do note "made to measure" is not the same as bespoke. Getting a corset that has been made to your own body shape (ie bespoke,) is a far better option than having one made from a random set of measurements (made to measure)

If a fitting in person isn't possible, then they should send you a calico toile (mock up) of the corset - completely boned so you can try it on and mark any alterations. Purchasing a corset should be an experience, an enjoyable luxury not a last minute cheap grab.

If you really, really must buy an off the peg corset, then go for an underbust waspie style, worn with a very well fitting bra.

Underbust Corset:

An underbust corset begins just under the breasts and goes over the hips. Importantly; this type of corset still needs to fit you properly!!!

Waspie Corset:

A waspie (or waist cincher) is the only type of corset that you can safely buy just about anywhere without too many particulars. It is still important to try it on - a waspie needs to conform to your waist measurements and be comfortable to wear. I would always recommend trying it on - you can easily slip it on over whatever you're wearing and staff are generally really helpful, informative and eerily good at taking one look at you and knowing what size you are! If it's a really big store and there aren't a lot of staff; bring a friend/family member/significant other who knows how to lace you in (pretty much a vital element of corset ownership).

I feel the same way about corsets as I do about shoes; if you're in pain then you're damaging your body. Wear it around the shop for at least 10 or 15 minutes; if anything hurts, don't buy it. Feel good, look good, have fun!