I had the privilege of hearing Miss Emilly Ladybird speak on the Steampunk panel at MCM Expo earlier this year. Her friendly and open approach - not to mention incredible costume - was one of the final factors in pulling me head first into the world of steampunk!How did you discover steampunk? What was it that attracted you to it?
Even as a child I always loved the Victorian sense of theatricality, Gothic novels, Gilbert and Sullivan and of course the clothing! But it was not till The Difference Engine was published that the whole world of politics, mechanisms and Victoriana meshed into a coherent whole for me. I have a passion for stories and I love the way steampunk has its base in histories of people and objects, both real and imagined - more so than any other subculture.
Oh, there are as many different steampunk "looks" as there are Steampunkers! I believe there is huge flexibility, so while it's fantastic that some people are taking a very historical perspective and almost recreating Victorian fashions exactly - wearing full length hand sewn crinoline ball gowns and morning coats - I also love the mad fantastical clothing that others favour like bloomers, brass breast plates and leather trench coats! It's a fantasy genre so there’s a lot of room for interpretation!
In my opinion, for something to be steampunk it needs to combine a Victorian flavour with a quirky individualism. Iconic items of Victorian apparel are easy visual shortcuts - top hat, frock coat, corset etc. but they in themselves are not enough, even with the addition of goggles! There needs to be thought, a character, a story behind the outfit, an element of "real" clothing showing the personality and profession of the owner.
Perhaps it's harking back to the Victorian element of pride in ones appearance and grooming?
I love original art noveau designs, Alphonse Mucha and Lalique were a big influence on my early years as an artist, so I often browse pictures of actual vintage pieces for inspiration of shape or texture. As designing costume and jewellery is my day job I have acquired an encyclopedic knowledge of victorian fashion too, but again it's the stories that will start me off on a project. Maybe that comes from my training as a theatrical designer- where you are always working to a script, with characters. I'm also really inspired by my steampunk friends; we bounce ideas off each other and often collaborate on concepts.
I usually start with colour. I hate the idea that everything in steampunk has to be brown. I really love bright colours and often create a whole costume based around just a small piece of gorgeous vintage fabric that I've found.
For a costume I'll think about all the underwear, the shoes, the hat and wig as well as the main dress or skirt and blouse. For a jewellery piece I might think about sculpting a central focus or I might find a gorgeous gem or vintage piece I want to incorporate. Then from the initial doodling sketches, one design will usually emerge as the strongest, then I will start working from that to create the patterns or basic components, ready to construct the piece
What are your top 5 tips for someone looking to put together a steampunk costume for the first time?
First think about the character or persona you want to portray, even if it's just a larger than life version of yourself. Do you want to be smart, sexy, edgy, industrial? A scientist, an adventureress, a gentleman of leisure?
Second, look at real Victorian clothes or fantasy film costumes in the genre, and think about the individual pieces that make up the look. Write all the pieces down and see how many you already have and what you need to find. If you are going to make them yourself, investigate how the original was created and try doing it the same way.
Third, don't rush out and buy expensive, off the peg, bulk manufactured clothes just because they have steampunk in the tag. Look for re-enactment style items made from natural fibres, wool, cotton, linen - seek out great quality and well made objects.
Fourth, think carefully about the key items you'll need to buy and keep your eyes open for good quality ones that will really add something to your outfit. For example save up and buy a bespoke from a historical corset maker that will fit and really enhance your figure, and you'll be able to use it in loads of different outfits. Add one key eyecatching "wow" thing to each outfit to make it look different; an unusual hat, a quirky cravat or brightly coloured parasol.
Fifth, collaborate! Don't know how to make a corset but love baking cake? Offer to swap time, hour for hour, with a friend who can do the thing you can't! If you can't solder, perhaps you could babysit? Go on workshops and have a go at making things yourself. It's so much fun and most steampunk people are very approachable and friendly.
Many people find the prospect of steampunk quite daunting as they are on a tight budget; how easy do you think it is to assemble a steampunk look on a small budget?
Very easy, you just need imagination and enthusiasm.
Thrift stores and charity shops often have great pieces which can be added too. A plain white shirt just needs a load of white lace to become a wonderful adventuresses blouse. A full skirt can be cut in half and sewn in ruches to create a fantastic bustle!
Cravats and gents vintage trousers often come up very reasonably on eBay,
And if you can sew, there are lots of great patterns for re-enactors of Victorian costume which can be adapted very easily to make your own styles - Truly Victorian are great!
The eternal question; where CAN one get cogs?
Hee hee! Well you can either take old clocks and watches apart, which is time consuming but will give you a few nice gears and wheels in each clock. Or you can buy them already disassembled by weight from places like eBay and Etsy (this is the expensive way..)
Then you can also buy new parts in bulk from the manufacturers and repairers of clocks and watches - talk to watch-menders in your area to find local suppliers in your country.
Finally you can also purchase specially made useful sized gears created especially for the steampunk/jewellery market, my favourite supplier is The Altered Element who have a huge range of different "cogs".
Last but not least; what would you say to anyone out there who is curious about steampunk but hesitant about jumping straight in?
Why not start by adding a few steampunk accessories to your everyday clothes? A pocket watch, perhaps some Victorian boots, try reading a few steampunk books, have a tea party and invite your friends to dress steampunk too! It's a lovely friendly scene, theres nothing to be afraid of!
Miss Emilly Ladybird has over 20 years experience in costuming and is a published author in jewellery design. Her beautiful jewellery can be found on Etsy and at Steampunk Jewellery. You can follow her costuming adventures on her blog and commission your own, one of a kind wedding dress should the fancy take you.
Her how-to jewellery book Steampunk Emporium will be published by Northlight Books later this year.
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